Slash Spec Racing Setup GuideSlash racing has taken the club-racing scene by storm. Enthusiastic racers all over the country are enjoying the latest off-road craze engineered by Traxxas, the electric-powered Slash 2WD short-course racing truck. The Slash is the perfect foundation for fun. It’s inexpensive, easy to operate, ultra durable, and looks extremely realistic.

The Slash is “Ready-To-Race” right out of the box, but there are a few tricks that can be utilized to get the most out of this distinctive machine. In this article I’ll cover all of the base setup principles of the Slash. Since most racing clubs are currently holding stock-spec classes for the Slash, I’ll save the hop-ups and go-fast goodies for a future article. For now, let’s go over the fundamentals of setting up a Slash for the track using the adjustments that are built into the truck.

Setup features

Suspension Adjustments

Since everyone has the same amount of horsepower in a stock-Slash race, a well-sorted suspension system is the single biggest advantage you can give your machine on the racetrack. The heart of any suspension system is the shock absorbers, and the Slash’s shocks are fully tunable. Although springs of different rates can be installed, most tracks’ stock-Slash rules do not permit spring changes. With that in mind, let’s focus on the adjustments we can make within the rules. These include spring preload and ride height, damping rate, and shock position (see right).

Shock oil

The Slash shocks come filled with 30wt shock fluid. This allows the suspension to absorb bumps easily at slower speeds. However, with the fast-paced action of track racing and hard landings from big jumps, slowing down the dampers by increasing the oil viscosity is generally beneficial. This keeps the chassis from bottoming out harshly and better manages weight transfer under accelleration and braking. I fill the front shocks with 50wt shock fluid and the rears with 60wt shock fluid. The front end of the Slash is much lighter than the rear end. This allows a lighter damping setup to be used up front to balance out the overall feel and sets the chassis up nicely in the corners. The 60wt oil in the rear shocks provides ample ‘pack’ for jump landings and keeps chassis roll to a minimum.

Shock Preload and Ride Height

How much preload you need to tune into the shocks depends on how much traction and weight transfer you’re looking for. The type of battery pack also plays a big part in this. Heavier battery packs, such as 6 or 7-cell NiMH battery packs will require an extra preload clip or two to achieve the same ride height versus a lightweight LiPo battery pack.

It’s also important to note that when setting proper ride height, the truck should be ready to drive. This means the battery should be installed and the body should be mounted (The body was removed in the photos for better visual). Pump the front and rear suspension by hand a few times (evenly, front to back) and let go. Note where the chassis settles. A good base setup is with the rear drive shafts set a little below level, and with the front suspension arms set level with the surface. This allows a slightly lower rear stance, which provides a good weight transfer entering a corner. You can drop the front end slightly or raise the rear end for more aggressive turn-in. Raising the rear end will also provide a little more on-power grip by keeping more weight directly above the rear tires during acceleration.

Shock Position

The lower position of each shock can be adjusted to achieve different handling characteristics. There are two positions located on each front suspension and there are five possible positions on each the rear suspension arms. Moving the shocks outward on the arms will decrease the leverage the arms have to compress the shock, making the suspension feel stiffer. Moving the shocks inward on the arms has the opposite effect. The angle of the shock also changes as you move them in or out on the arms, and this effects their spring and damping rates. The closer the shocks get to vertical, the less the spring and damping rates will change from full extension to full compression. The more the shocks are laid down, the greater the difference in rate change; the spring and damping rates increase as the shock is compressed.

Shock position also affects the overall down travel of the suspension arm. Down travel is reduced by moving the lower shock mount further away from the chassis. Getting an ample amount of down travel is what should be looked at first, and then you can determine what damping rate is desired. Remember that if you change shock position to alter down travel, then the damping and spring rate will also change, according to which direction the shocks are moved.

My base setup for shock position up front is the inner hole. Out back, I start with the second hole from the inside. This setup offers ample down travel to soak up bumps and jumps. Smooth tracks with small jumps can benefit from moving the shock positions out one hole. This will reduce body roll and enhance the truck’s agility. However, on a bumpy track, a lack of down travel will cause the chassis to bounce and upset handling.

Alignment

Proper alignment settings are a very important part of setup. An ill-handling truck can be fixed in many cases just by correcting the camber and toe settings. When adjusting chassis alignment settings, always remember that it’s most important that the left and right sides are set and adjusted equally.

Toe (front only)

Toe angle is described as the direction the wheels are pointing (in relation to one another) when looking down at the chassis from above. The rear toe angle is not adjustable on the Slash. The toe angle is preset by the factory and is built into the rear suspension design. Adjusting the front toe angle is easily done by changing the length of the steering links. With the front wheels pointed straight ahead, check to see if the fronts of the tires are pointed in toward each other or away from each other. A zero toe angle is when both the left and right side tires are pointing perfectly straight ahead with no angle.

On two-wheel drive vehicles, the front toe angle is generally set with small angles. Pointing the fronts of the tires inward (toe-in) provides better straight-line stability and more steering through and out of a corner. Pointing the tires outward (to-out) increases ‘instant’ steering response. It never hurts to run zero toe up front on a two-drive chassis, but if you’re looking for a slight change in steering sensitivity, then try making small adjustments to the front toe angle. My base front toe setting for the Slash is 1.0-degree of toe out per side.

Camber Front and Rear

Camber defines the angle at which the tops of the front and rear tires are leaned in from a perpendicular (wheels straight up and down – no angle) setting. This is known as ‘negative’ camber. Positive camber is when the tops of the tires are leaned outward, and is very rarely used. There are different ways to measure camber, but the most common method is to measure the angle when the truck is resting at its race-ready ride height.

Tuning in negative camber is very common in on and off-road racing. The angle of the tire changes as the chassis leans into and through a corner. The outside of the tire digs into the surface while the inside of the tires lift up away from the surface. This changes the contact patch of the tire in relation to the ground. It’s ideal to keep as much of the contact patch connected to the surface through a corner as possible. However, it is sometimes necessary to detune (decrease) the contact patch to scrub the ruts and imperfections on the track surface.

Front

My base front camber setting is -2.0 degree. This means that the angle of the tires point inward toward the chassis is set at 2.0 degree from straight up and down. This allows a good contact patch through the corner. I’ll dial in more camber angle on heavily rutted tracks.

Rear

My base rear camber setting is -2.5 degree from perpendicular. The rear camber changes more drastically as the suspension arms move up and down through the entire range. I’ll make changes to the rear camber setting based on how much rear traction is needed for the current track conditions.

Roll Center (rear only)

There are two different roll center positions located on the rear shock tower of the Slash, upper and lower. Basically, this changes the inner location of the upper camber link. The lower (stock) location provides the most stability for the rear end, but if you’re looking for more steering and turn-in, the upper position will help.

The upper camber link controls the camber angle as the wheel moves up and down through the suspension range. The lower adjustment position increases the angle of the camber more progressively as the suspension arm is compressed through its upstroke. This generally improves or maintains an ample level of traction as the chassis leans into a corner. The upper adjustment position allows the contact patch to decrease slightly as the truck leans in a corner, which slightly reduces overall grip though the corner. This frees up the rear end to rotate more aggressively, thus enhancing turn-in. I use the lower (stock) location as a base setup on my Slash, and in the event I need more turn-in on a very tight track, then I’ll change to the upper position.

Note: when using the upper rear camber link position, a small amount of material will need to be removed from the shock tower just above the camber link. This is for proper clearance to attain full up travel from the suspension.

Differential

The differential inside the transmission of the Slash is a planetary gear-type differential and is not sealed. However, it is still tunable. There are multiple ways of changing the ‘action’ of the diff, but the longest lasting method that I’ve found, without having to have special tools to modify the diff case is to use a very thick diff lube, but only use a little bit though. The thick fluid will not escape as easily, and when only a small amount is used, the results can be very effective without being too tight.

I use 300Kwt diff fluid in the diff. Remove the factory grease from inside the diff case using a rag, and apply a small amount (approx 25% to 30% full) of 300Kwt diff fluid to the gears inside of the case. An alternative to get the same action would be to fill the diff case up with 10K to 20K weight fluid, but then the lighter viscosity will leak out over a short period of time. The 300K holds up and stays consistent for many weeks of racing. Experiment by trying different amounts of 300K fluid to get your ideal result.

Custom Painted Slash Body

Slash video-RC Tune-Up: Traxxas Slash 2WD part 1

Slash Articles:

Some cheap models don’t last very long. You’ll eventually realize why they were sold at such low costs after some time. There’s certainly one exception, and it’s called the Traxxas Slash. This is a well-built machine that can perform just as well, or even better than all the other similar products sold in the market. As for the batteries, you’ll see a foam spacer in the box. This is to protect the batteries located at the compartment on the chassis. If you want more traction, just place the battery toward the rear of the compartment while the spacer is placed in front. If you need more control with your steering, simply slide the battery toward the front and place the spacer behind. It’s all up to you actually.

Of course, you also need to look at the wheels and tires of the truck. These are needed for stock-spec racing. Because of the conditions it’ll be exposed to, the rubber is designed to work well and last long. If you want to add more personality to your car, there is an accessory called the red-bead wheel. Don’t worry about scratches showing because the color is molded-in. Take a look at the body because you can top this with a Pro-Line Hardcore body. It fits seamlessly and it also includes window masks and decals.

In the end, your whole experience with the Traxxas Slash will be unbelievable and amazing. You’ll feel your adrenaline pumping in every race. If popularity is an indication to how good a product is, know that more and more people have become fanatics of the Slash.

The Traxxas Slash is a well-planned machine that can outperform all the other electric race cars out in the market. It comes with a foam spacer for the batteries that is located at the battery compartment on the chassis. If you’re in need of some more traction, you can place the battery toward the rear of the compartment while the spacer is in front. If, however, you need more steering, just slide the battery toward the front and place the spacer behind the pack. Most players prefer putting the battery toward the rear.

The wheels and tires are also mandatory for stock-spec racing. The rubber works well in different conditions. They also offer excellent tread wear. You can also add an accessory such as the red-bead wheel if you want to enhance the look of your truck. Don’t worry about scratches because the color is molded-in. As for the body, you can top it off with a Pro-Line Hardcore body. It fits perfectly and it includes window masks and decals. Traxxas also offers a variety of styles for the body.

In the end, racing with the Traxxas Slash is an unbelievable experience. It’s fun and filled with adrenaline. If you looked all over the US and scrounged around the racing circuits, Slash racing has single-handedly changed the trend. These cool trucks are fun and sturdy. People of all ages can take part in the fun. Plus, it’s affordable and unique. You’ll enjoy building and putting all the parts and accessories together.

When it comes to the electric racing circuit, there are many battery options available for you. The most common cells used are the NiMH batteries. These are very popular because they’re affordable, durable, and most importantly, reliable. They are not prone to internal damage and can be charged with most battery chargers available out in the market. When compared to the others, these are relatively inexpensive. Now, another kind of battery has become popular, and it’s called the Lithium-Polymer (LiPo) battery. They are capable of doing more, have a higher voltage, and come with a flat discharge curve. These are a little more expensive.

The Traxxas Slash comes built with Low Voltage Detection circuitry. This is perfect for the LiPo pack because it saves on voltage and tells you when it’s time to add more power to it. If you stay on course, the speed control shuts power down automatically to protect your battery. During a race, a Traxxas Power Cell Series 7-cell battery is perfect because it gives you more voltage than a 2S LiPo while the additional weight of the NiMH pack helps stabilize the truck and keep it firmly planted on solid ground.

If you want insane power, the 3S LiPo setup goes as high as 11.1 voltages of power. This gives you consistency and control during your run. The Slash is able to maximize the battery’s power while it doesn’t sacrifice the machine’s performance. Get the truck now and begin one of the many amazing races you’ll have in your life.

Gain control on your car’s speed and performance by enhancing the parts that your Traxxas Slash came with. You can replace the stock plastic steering bell crank unit with the aluminum version. You will see a big improvement on the steering control and durability. You will also be able to pivot freely on sealed ball bearings.

You also have to consider the kind of races you enter. For those who are highly involved in stock-spec racing, the factory Titan 12T motor is the most ideal. You can fully rely on this brand as it offers excellent speed. However, for open-class racing, you need something with a higher power capability. The best one in the market is called the Traxxas Velineon. This is the best out there when it comes to speed, power, and of course, reliability. The Velineon provides you with plenty of power for clearing the biggest jump sets and ripping down straight paths at daredevil speeds. The best thing about the Velineon is the virtual maintenance-free operation of the brushless motor. The said motor is fully protected with a casing so that no brush wears it out.

Brushless motors are better at handling stock gear ratios. You can also replace the plastic output yokes with hardened steel output yokes so that you Slash can better handle the increased power of the Velineon brushless system. You’ll see that the yokes can operate smoothly and are made from steel of good quality. The goal is to put an armor that fully protects your new toys while it doesn’t sacrifice performance.

Just like people, you want your Slash to have a personality of its own. The best part is, the toy won’t cost you much. As with any popular stock class of racing, you may want to eventually get into open-class racing. You won’t be disappointed because the Slash performs superbly at high speeds as it was designed to handle the rigors of modified off-road racing.

You simply need the proper setup and accessories to see what your truck is truly capable of doing. You’ll definitely have fun because there are accessories that improve performance and durability. For your basic instructions, you can simply refer to the stock setup guide. But if you want to build the ultimate Super-Slash, there are other things you must know about.

One of the first things you can look into is the upgrade of parts. The Traxxas aluminum Big Bore shocks add to the smooth action and long performance. These are coated with Teflon so that it can withstand the excessive wear and tear in every race. Plus, the shock shafts are coated as well to ensure that you get your money’s worth. You can also replace the steering links with lightweight aluminum links so that you decrease the weight of your truck while enhancing performance. The links are also available in red. You can adjust them easily and make changes whenever you want.

You can also make improvements on the suspension by adding aluminum caster blocks, steering blocks and rear hub carriers. These not only make your Slash look so much better, but you now have a car that can withstand just about anything.

Setting up your Traxxas Slash can be an awesome experience. You will get to know your truck more if you know where each piece goes. You even have to consider the car’s camber. This basically defines the angle at which the tops of the front and rear tires are leaned in from a perpendicular setting. When it leans inward, this is set at negative. But when the tops of the tires are leaned outward, this is called a positive. When it comes to usability, the negative camber is more common. For off-road racing, you need to tune in your negative cambers so that you can adjust the tire’s contact patch in relation to the ground. There are angles you can follow, and all you need to do is take a look at the instruction manual to see which one you need.

As for the differential found inside the Slash, you’ll see that it is a planetary gear-type differential which isn’t sealed by anything. Nonetheless, you can still make adjustments to it should you choose to. To change the action of the differentials, you will need to use a lube. You don’t need to use much. In fact, a small amount can yield effective changes and improvements. Before putting in the new lube, you must remove factory grease with a rug. You can experiment by trying on different amounts of 300K fluid to get to the outcome you most want. After some time, you will get to know your truck better. Once you see what you need to prepare, you can be on your way to the best racing experience of your life.

You open the box of your new Traxxas and can’t wait to set it up. But know that proper alignment should be made to make the most out of the truck’s performance. If you feel that something is wrong and that the truck doesn’t run the way it should, you can usually look at the camber and toe settings. As you adjust the chassis and line them accordingly, always take note that it’s most important that the left and right sides are set and adjusted the same way.

When you look at the toe angle on the slash, no adjustments have to be made to it. It’s already been adjusted in the factory and the manufacturers have built it into the rear suspension design. You can make adjustments, however, with the front toe angle by changing the length of the steering links. A zero would mean that both the left and right side tires are pointing perfectly straight ahead

The base setup for shock position up front is the inner hole. This kind of setup offers enough down travel that have bumps and jumps along the way. If the road is smooth and there aren’t much jumps to be made, move the shock positions out one hole so that the ride will be much better by reducing body roll and enhancing agility. But on a bumpy road, a lack of down travel will cause the chassis to bounce and upset overall handling. Therefore, for your Traxxas slash to perform at its finest, make sure that you are careful during the setup.

You can also set different positions for your shocks on the new Traxxas Slash. There are basically two positions that you can find on each front suspension. Plus, there are five other possible positions on each rear suspension arm. If you move the shocks outward, you decrease the leverage to compress the shock. This feels as if you’re driving a truck with a much stiffer suspension. On the other hand, if you move them inward, the opposite is achieved.

You need to consider how you change the shock’s angle as you move them in or out on the arms. Everything changes with every movement, including their spring and damping rates. The more vertical the position, the less the spring and damping rates will change from full extension to full compression. The more horizontal they are, the greater the rates change. When the shock is compressed, the spring and damping rates also increase.

Basically, where you put the shock on the arm affects the overall down travel of your truck. You can only reduce it by moving the lower shock mount further away from the chassis. You need to get the right amount of down travel before anything else. It is only after can you determine the right damping rate. Remember that if you change shock position to alter down travel, then the damping and spring rate will also change, according to which direction the shocks are moved. If you’re base setup for shock position up front is the inner hole, you can travel to absorb bumps and jumps much better.

The preload that you need for your new Traxxas Slash will depend on the transition and weight transfer you require. You also need to consider the type of battery pack you’ll be using. The heavier the battery pack, the more preload clips you’ll be required. You need to achieve the same height ride for your truck.

As you set the truck to its proper height, you should be able to drive it immediately. Otherwise, there’s a mistake somewhere in the installation. After you install the battery and mount the body, you’re basically good to go. To move, just pump the front and rear suspension using your hand. You may have to do this a few times before you can finally let go. Also take note where the chassis settles. You know that you’ve made a good base setup when the rear drive is set a little below the level and with the front suspension arms set at surface level. This means that the rear stance is slightly lower. Turning on corners can be smoother when you assemble the truck this way because the weight transfer will be evenly distributed.

On the other hand, you can do the opposite and drop the front end slightly as you raise the rear. This works perfectly for more aggressive turns. You also give yourself more power on your grip by maintaining more of the truck’s weight directly on the rear whenever you accelerate or add more speed. What you do is all up to you, but whatever it is, you’ll love the Slash!

You have to think about how you’ll set up your Traxxas in order to maximize your new toy’s speed and performance. First off, the preload that you’ll need for your new Traxxas Slash will depend on the kind of transition and weight transfer you will want. Also think about the type of battery pack you’ll use for it. The heavier the battery pack, the more preload clips you’ll need because you have to achieve the same height ride for your truck.

As you set the truck and assemble it to its proper height, you should be able to drive it immediately. Moreover, after you install the battery and mount the body, you’re essentially good to go. To start moving, just pump the front and rear suspension using your hand. You may have to do this a few times before letting go while you take note where the chassis settles. There are several choices for a good base setup. When the rear drive is set a little below the level and with the front suspension arms set at surface level, this puts the rear stance lower. Thus, you can turn corners smoother because the weight transfer will be evenly distributed.

You can opt for the opposite as you drop the front end slightly and raise the rear. This works ideally for those who want more aggressive turns. You also give yourself more control on your grip by keeping more of the truck’s weight directly on the rear whenever you accelerate or add more speed. However you set it up, you’ll love the Slash!